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He's got big balls

Being in the mood for pyramids (and ¿when is one not?), the lovely Naomi and I have been jaunting to all within our lazy reach; those without need of a flying contraption.

With a loose mid-December day to spend, local friends Sebastian and Ana Paula, whom I had met at Faith No More, along with the (currently) jedi-knight Marcelo, 4 years-of-age, collected us and headed for Cuaravaca, alleged City of Eternal Spring. First we passed tanks, for a drug baron was killed here days before and the military is keeping an eye on the comings-and-goings, and then we passed the 5 Balls Round-About. It is named such because the statue in the middle has famous Mexican revolutionary Emiliano Zapata riding on a horse. Zapata has 2 balls, the horse has 2 balls, and passing through the intersection will remove from the driver 1. We collected Sebastian's mother, who has compiled a definitive guide to pre-Columbine cooking (we seem to have stumbled upon humble-yet-important friends) and headed to the Palace of Cortes (he had a few, but this one seems more important than the one in Coyoacan) with it's museum of general displays about both sides of the colonisation, including a Diego Riviera mural, and of the pyramid that makes the foundations. General conquistador practise was to destroy pagan temples and build Catholic churches on the ruins, ¡stable foundations being only one of the many benefits! (I love these upside-down punctuations; you can begin your question or exclamation in the middle of a sentence!) One of the nicer rooms had a mural of plate-armoured Spaniards fighting Aztec Jaguar and Eagle warriors in full dress. Make no mistake: the conquest was all about clockwork robots battling were-jaguars! Sometimes the robots were fearsome beings of 4 legs and 2 heads. This was the initial Aztec belief about Spanish cavalry. Except for the robot bit.

From here we made for the Recinto de Catedral (Cathedral compound) which is unique in that it has an open-air chapel (think a band-shell, but for Jeeeesus) made to lure natives in the fifteen-hundreds to come and check out the One God Policy, as they wouldn't willingly walk into a closed building. The Spaniards used to do a bit of panto with puppets to show the crucification, and throw some grain-as-blood about from spear wounds and so-forth, and the natives would go “Huh, it's like one of our good-ol' human sacrifices. Now I get it.” It had the desired effect: contemporary Mexico is very,very catholic, but they do like their Jesus more brutalised than the I-talians do.

We passed the afternoon at the nearby Tepoztlán, but that, I think, is for later.


( 1 comment — Leave a comment )
Jan. 6th, 2010 07:23 pm (UTC)
Always enjoy the posts mate! Finally managed to catch up on them all, glad to see you finally got to see the not-so-pointy things.

Look forward to more installments!
( 1 comment — Leave a comment )

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