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Go to the past | Go to the future

While usually not the type to go in for symbolism, one gesture I indulge in is visiting the graves of historical figures. Usually bad, bad men: Lenin, Stalin, Mao, Hans Christian Doppler. I even negligently walked past Caesar without paying attention. And, having been on the trail of history here, and one man in particular, when I found that El Primero Conquistador Hernán Cortés is in fact buried in the ton centre and not Spain, I was there within days.

Fruitloop American fanatics love claiming that the most evil men of last century were atheists, and always list Stalin, Mao and Pol Pot, always forgetting an inconvenient German who tended to say religious things. Also, making the cut-off last century is judicious because it forgets men like Cortés, who had a church built on the very spot he first met Moctezuma II, the man whose empire and culture he would destroy and whose people he would subjugate and enslave (not that the Aztecs were even slightly better, but I've pontificated on this before). Indeed, he is buried in that very church, above the altar.

Owing to the controversial nature of the man, while the presence of his bones there is a matter of public record, it is not advertised, and thus initially I couldn't find them. Very quietly and respectfully I approached the caretaker, and in Spanish asked if I had the correct place. He starts declaring at high volume that yes indeed it is, and to follow him, and then there is some long, elaborate and loud story that I didn't catch. Something about either the skull not being there, or only the skull being there, and some wild gesticulations, and something about Moctezuma. Someone unlike Italian church folk who speak to you in a condescending ponderous whisper.

One of the plans I always had for living in North America was to see bands that don't tour Australia, and right near the top of that list was Type O Negative, the Drab Four. This is a lesson not to procrastinate.

This lunar cycle

April 2015
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